rock climbing is inherently dangerous in all of its forms. even with substantial experience, climbing can result in severe injury, paralysis, and even death. castlewood canyon involves even greater danger than other rock climbing areas as it is riddled with rattlesnakes in the warm months and its conglomerate rock can shatter, break, crumble, and explode at any time, without warning, on even well-traveled climbs.

this guide is intended for mere reference by experienced climbers only, who have substantial personal knowledge in climbing safety, equipment, and technique, and who understand and fully accept the extreme risks inherent in this sport. in no way should this reference be confused as an instruction manual and those who do not have substantial experience with all of the safety and technical aspects of rock climbing should seek professional instruction, which can often be arranged through local climbing gyms. be safe!

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

HOBBLE COBBLE AREA



HOBBLE COBBLE BOULDER: a great little block for castlewood standards... just beyond the parking for the Font Area, there is a trail that cuts up to the cliffline marked "Cave Trail". Park opposite the trailhead and take it uphill to the cliffline, always trending up at any split-offs. once at the cliff line, turn left and walk about 40 yards, passing under Tunnel Block in the process. Save for the margins of the well-trodden, established trail, this is an ivy-free approach and good for a quick session.

All variations on the Hobble Cobble boulder start sitting on an obvoius hueco. Over the winter of 2006, runoff removed additional dirt from the landing allowing a lower, but awkward start from a lower hueco. Adding this lower start to the problems adds a bit of difficulty but not a grade.

1. Hobble Direct*** v6ish - from the sit, bust to the lip of the arete, then tension directly up on sloping holds.

2. Hobble Cobble*** v7ish - the original. from the sit, gain the lip of the arete then follow it through poor left hand slaps until gaining the right corner, switch directions and top out.

3. Early and Often*** v9ish - sit start and bust out through the steep roof to the far side of the boulder, slap that arete until you can gain the lip of the slab, then top out directly. there are a few edges that can break on this one, but they resisted marcelo montalva on the FA and remain yet.

4. Hobble Extension* v8/9ish? - do hobble cobble but continue around the upper corner with funky high tension, top out as for Early and Often.


TUNNEL BLOCK

1. Willis* v5ish? - start in the center of the main slab with crazy awkward, Will Lemaire-like, highstepping action to climb up and slightly right to exit.

2. The Slither Fox Method** v5ish? - start somewhat matched on the right arete just over head height, tension to dualing sloping sidepulls and up... don't dab on cliff behind you or smash your head! [this one was named after a Lemaire-coined term of climbing smooth and sketchy, though i believe the full term is slither-fox-cobra-strike-method, where one lurks and eases up part of a balancy desparate move, then strikes dynamically right before the shoes or fingers pop off].

6 comments:

chuffer said...

Cool ... BTW, there is a decent arete maybe 1/2 way between hobble cobble and the trailhead. Not sure I was first, but I spent A LOT of time cleaning it up in 2003 and it seemed new.

Hurdy Gurdy V3/4 sds ... check it out for details, cause I'll be damned if I remember much.

cstorms said...

awesome, ill have to check this out...this is one i havent climbed on. Keep it up.

sock hands said...

my pace is glacial!

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Anonymous said...

piler

Joshua S. said...

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