rock climbing is inherently dangerous in all of its forms. even with substantial experience, climbing can result in severe injury, paralysis, and even death. castlewood canyon involves even greater danger than other rock climbing areas as it is riddled with rattlesnakes in the warm months and its conglomerate rock can shatter, break, crumble, and explode at any time, without warning, on even well-traveled climbs.

this guide is intended for mere reference by experienced climbers only, who have substantial personal knowledge in climbing safety, equipment, and technique, and who understand and fully accept the extreme risks inherent in this sport. in no way should this reference be confused as an instruction manual and those who do not have substantial experience with all of the safety and technical aspects of rock climbing should seek professional instruction, which can often be arranged through local climbing gyms. be safe!

Monday, February 11, 2008


1. Bloodsport** [v8ish] – a Mike Hickey/Jade Whitney special… start on an incut pocket [or two?] at shoulder/head height on the overhang inside the large cave and dyno over the sloping rock landing. The distance of the huck is greater than depicted above since it travels somethat left to right. to start sitting does not add any grade, but coolness. quite honestly, i don't know if hickey/jade started sitting or not. deal.

1b. Van Damme *** [v-very hard] - start sitting at the far right of the cave on the matched jug, make a strong cross over to the starting pocket and continue the rising traverse on large reaches and extremely powerful moves to exit the left side of the cave. Chuck neglected to rate this line, but it may be one of castlewood's very hardest.

2. Apacalypto** [v5ish] – start on incut features at about 6ft to the right of the mouth of the cave, traverse left over the bad landing on incut features to a powerful and awkward finish at the far left arête… try not to bail or dab! Sit Start** [v6ish] - the start sitting at the arête down and right of Bloodsport with left hand and heel on an obvious edge feature and right hand on a sidepull. **See "Segal", in no. 3, below...

3. False Idols* [v5ish] – sit start as for Apacalypto and climb up and right from the stand start over the poor landing on very dirty and suspect pebbles and cobbles. [Stand start v3ish?] Full Sit / Segal? [v-hard] - Chuck Fryberger recently sorted out the proper sit to this line, matched on the jug just inside the cave... use some crazy strong moves on sidepulls and the pebble with good feet to gain the edges for the stand start. Though this essentially climbs two moves into the normal sit start from the stone pedestel, starting lower seemed to change the sequence entirely.

4. Pagan Idolatry* [v3ish] – start standing at the bathtub feature to the right of the cave opening and ascend crimpy pebbles over a poor landing. Loose and dirty is the rule.

5. Short Round*** [v3ish] – start on a positive pockety feature at chest height and hop to the perfect lip sloper, mantle and exit up and left. Again - very short, but with extremely fun moves… Kali** [v6/7ish] – start on the arête of the chimney feature inside the Bloodsport Cave, tension and swing out poor pockets to gain the start of Short Round and up.

6. Pankot* [v5ish] - opposite short round, start crimping on your choice of very sharp crystaline 'features' just over the lip of cave on the slab and bare the pain to pull on and grunt your way onto the slab. continue up and slightly right on sloping crimps and positive but suspect pebbles over the ankle twister landing. this is merely a 'clean up' climb is not recommended until you have nothing else to do.

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