rock climbing is inherently dangerous in all of its forms. even with substantial experience, climbing can result in severe injury, paralysis, and even death. castlewood canyon involves even greater danger than other rock climbing areas as it is riddled with rattlesnakes in the warm months and its conglomerate rock can shatter, break, crumble, and explode at any time, without warning, on even well-traveled climbs.

this guide is intended for mere reference by experienced climbers only, who have substantial personal knowledge in climbing safety, equipment, and technique, and who understand and fully accept the extreme risks inherent in this sport. in no way should this reference be confused as an instruction manual and those who do not have substantial experience with all of the safety and technical aspects of rock climbing should seek professional instruction, which can often be arranged through local climbing gyms. be safe!

Monday, February 11, 2008


1. Fa Arete*[v-moderate] – start low on the left arête on a huge gaping mouth and climb straight up the short bulge with a big move to a jug pocket, or small moves on shallower pods. dirty.

2. The Distance*[v7ish] – make the big intro move of fa arete but traverse right, droppin down slightly, to join the Distance Overhang.

3. Fa Traverse*[v2ish] – start a bit left of distance overhang, underneath the jug in the diagonal seam, pull into the jug and traverse up and left to top out the bulge of Fa Arete.

4. Long Shortcut*[v6ish] – start sitting as for distance overhang and get the pirhana mouth pocket to move left to a jug, then cut back right and up through a couple edgy/sloping features on the left side of the main bulge. this is just a tad easier than distance overhang from the sit.

5. Distance Overhang**[v4ish] – start with holds at chest height [LH on a shattered cobble incut and RH slightly higher on a positive edge/ear/pocket thing] and climb the main bulge of the boulder with a powerful move to the lip from an insecure sloping hold. to me, this problem feels about as difficult as "hagan's wall" on flagstaff in boulder but it was originally given a v3. Sit Start*[v7ish] – start sitting slightly left of the plumb line of Distance Overhang on some sloping edge pod things with a huge foot ledge just above the dirt and suffer through some sharp moves, including a strong pull off a two finger pihrana mouth pocket. A more direct low start using a smooth egg-sized undercling/sidepull cobble and ? has not yet been done as far as i know.


cstorms said...

at the top of distance overhang there is huge pebble sticking out just below the lip, is that on? its the next hold after the "insecure sloping hold"

sock hands said...

it's all on, unless specified off, son!

cstorms said...

sounds good, man that piranha hold is a biter