THE FOUNTAIN BOULDER
1. Fountain Face*[v1ish?] – start standing at the start of the traverse and climb straight up, with some dirty, awkward moves to slide around the left of the upper bulge. Sit Start *[v3ish?]
2. Fountain Lip Traverse**[v2-4+ish] – start standing or sitting at a pod feature on the left of the boulder and traverse the lip all the way left, culminating with a difficult match and reach to an incut-flake, before rolling over and topping out. The grade of this line depends on how low one stays for the traverse - the lower the harder.
3. Left Cave Direct**[v6ish] – start with LH low on a sloping feature on the arête and RH on an angled crimp at chest height; pull to a thin crimp and move to the font scales higher on the arête and top out as for the Fountain Lip Traverse. The starting holds have crumbled consistently over the years, including the winter of 2007/08. This start is validated due to its fun factor and since the powerful move required from the sit will eventually result in the explosion of the RH crimp. 4. Sit Start**[v9ish as of summer 2007, but significantly harder now that the holds have broken even more] – start sitting with LH on the same hold as the stand start and RH on an obvious gaston pocket [the lip of this broke in 2007]… using tricky foot work, power up to the diagonal right hand crimp and finish. 5. Ben’s Wall**[v11ish, also harder now after the 2008 breaks] – climb Left Cave Direct from a sit, but starting with LH in the pocket that is used for the right hand start of the regular sit start. This variation is also probably more difficult now due to the breakage.
6. Cave Route Direct***[v7+ish, for real] – NOTE: A GOOD, POSITIVE HOLD ON THIS OFTEN TRIED ‘CLASSIC’ BROKE IN MARCH OF 2008, and even though I previously believed this line to be solid 7 before, the loss of this hold makes the lower sequence a bit more stretched out and more powerful, thereby buttressing the argument for at least v7 [numerous strong climbers had called the pre-break line v8]. What’s worse is that the entire hollow starting flake seems to be flexing more than in years prior. BE CAREFUL since if this rips off, it will weigh many pounds. Start sitting on the center of the obvious rail system and make a couple moves right, lock off up to another rail up left, and lockoff or dyno left to a sharp pocket before the top out… historically, feet hitting the adjacent block on this move does not invalidate the ascent due to its close proximity and avoiding this ‘dab’ probably adds a grade. Without this meddling block and the flexing flakes, this problem could fetch four stars. 7. Cave Route Indirect**[v5/6ish] – follow the rail right and top out with horribly flexing flakes above the stone in the landing. 8. Variation [add a ½ grade] – start sitting slightly left in the cave right on the edge of the mini-drop off, do a large, powerful move to gain the main flake system as for the traditional start.
9. Unknown – on the backside of the boulder a few dirty, slabby climbs can be done.
10. Standard Arete** [v2ish] – start sitting and climb arête with powerful opposition and balance, topping out somewhat on the left face. V0 if climbed from a stand. Ridiculousness [v-whatever] – start sitting and climb the arête half way, traverse the face leftwards through the corridor, and reach over to the other boulder to climb cave route direct or cave route indirect [#s 6 and 7].
11. Doom Flake Slab** [vB] – start on a huge, HOLLOW, horizontal flake at chest height and climb up and right to top out. CAREFULL OF THE HOLLOWNESS ! Variation * [v-much harder] – start from a crouched position on underclings, power slap to horizontal flake above and top out.
12. Effing Goofy** [v4ish] – start at a large break and climb the blunt arête with awkward opposition, heel-toe locks, kneebars… whatever you can think up to top out the arête. Be mindful of the skull cracking block behind you.
13. Polish Falcon* [v?] – climb the three-ledged arête and beware of dirty holds.
14. Corridor Wall* [v2ish] - start on thin holds and ascend the middle of the face, but trending left. Top out in roughly the middle of the boulder with a committing but reasonable mantle. Top out left or right for a variant.