rock climbing is inherently dangerous in all of its forms. even with substantial experience, climbing can result in severe injury, paralysis, and even death. castlewood canyon involves even greater danger than other rock climbing areas as it is riddled with rattlesnakes in the warm months and its conglomerate rock can shatter, break, crumble, and explode at any time, without warning, on even well-traveled climbs.

this guide is intended for mere reference by experienced climbers only, who have substantial personal knowledge in climbing safety, equipment, and technique, and who understand and fully accept the extreme risks inherent in this sport. in no way should this reference be confused as an instruction manual and those who do not have substantial experience with all of the safety and technical aspects of rock climbing should seek professional instruction, which can often be arranged through local climbing gyms. be safe!

Monday, February 11, 2008

Font Area - CRITICAL MASS

minute bus /aka/ deep in dis-pear [burchfield/montalva/calrusso problem] v7/8ish? - on the backside of the critical mass block. climb this very short line from a lay-down start at a large pocket just beneath the bottom lip, climb through small, tweaky features to gain the top. significantly more difficult than it looks. good rock quality.


















1. Critical Mass Arete**[v4ish] – start sitting on incut holds and climb up and right, following the arête on fat, sloping pinches until it pushes you back to holds on the left, slabby face to gain the top out. The fat pinches on this problem give it some stars, despite its short stature and semi-contrived nature. Variation [unknown] – it appears possible to traverse onto the right face over the poor landing on interesting sloping rails. Try it and let me know!
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